In the latest installment of our anonymous interview series, we talk to fashion stylist who gets celebrity clients red-carpet ready.

I’m a fashion stylist, and got into the business twenty years ago in Toronto, Canada. I started out by styling models for their portfolios. At the time, there were a lot more fashion magazines in Europe, so it was easier to get a portfolio together over there than it was in North America, and that’s exactly what I did. It seemed to be what a lot of people were doing back then.

Jenni Chang

Author, as told to

Arina Shabanova

Illustrator

SOMETIMES, THE PEOPLE YOU’RE WORKING WITH have so much on their plate that they forget to communicate everything they want. There are a lot of surprises on the job. A lot of times, clients will want something the night before or the day of the shoot. There was a time when I might’ve said, “That’s not be possible.” But now it’s like, “Whatever you need. Absolutely!” It’s all about keeping a positive attitude, though, of course, deep inside you’re compelled to snap. “What are you talking about? This wasn’t part of the deal!” You just try to stay calm, organized and prepared for whatever might come your way, for instance, making sure that you’ve got a seamstress on hand for the fitting. There can be a lot of miscommunication, so you learn to ask questions and clarify things in advance.

Fashion design
in the United States

17,000

THE NUMBER of people employed as fashion designers.

$73,600

THE AVERAGE SALARY of a fashion designer.

Source: United States Congress Joint Economic Committee

Milking Matt Dillon

IT’S A WELL-KNOWN FACT THAT EDITORIAL PHOTO SHOOTS don’t really pay well. There are frequently scenarios where you have to spend money to work. This is across the board in fashion, from makeup artists to hair stylists. But you do it anyway because it’s great for your portfolio.

For instance, I recently did a shoot with Matt Dillon. The client was like, “Oh, sorry we have no budget.” But, then again, you’re getting pictures of a celebrity for your portfolio, which only helps you book more work down the line. It’s an investment in your future, in your profession, because the more people see your name and work circulating, the more people will want to hire you.

On the flipside, you have to make sure you’re booking a nice balance of unpaid editorial work and well-compensated commercial work. The jobs you really want to do for financial gain are TV commercials, print ads, things like that.

Wholesale merchandising
in the United States

141,000

THE NUMBER of people employed as wholesale merchandisers.

$43,440

THE AVERAGE SALARY of an installation, maintenance and repair worker (compared to $50,120 for a graphic designer and $47,630 for a planning and expediting clerk).

Source: United States Congress Joint Economic Committee

The fashion industry
by the numbers

$2.1 trillion

THE VALUE of the global fashion industry.

$98 million

THE VALUE of the New York fashion industry.

$82 billion

THE VALUE of fashion imports to the United States.

$6 billion

THE VALUE of fashion exports from the United States.

$250 billion

THE AMOUNT Americans spend on fashion each year.

1.9 million

THE NUMBER of people employed by the fashion industry in the United States.

Source: United States Congress Joint Economic Committee

No moms allowed

I WAS SPEAKING TO ONE OF MY ASSISTANTS in Toronto yesterday and she said, “Nobody I know that’s a stylist, except for one person, really has children.” It takes up a lot of your time and that’s what we focus on. Keep in mind, this is someone in Toronto, where I feel people are a little more family-oriented than people in New York might be. This profession is self-selecting in the sense that it attracts people who are ambitious, individualistic and possibly a little self-centered.

I don’t have kids myself. I’m dating a person now, and when it comes to relationships, I need someone who is open-minded and easygoing. I had one boyfriend who couldn’t understand my constantly fluctuating schedule. There were definitely times when we’d have plans, but I’d have to say, “Sorry! Just got a job,” and cancel on him. It’s definitely not a place for codependency.

The retail sector
in the United States

1.5 million

THE NUMBER of people employed in retail.

$26,000

THE AVERAGE SALARY of retail worker.

Source: United States Congress Joint Economic Committee

Occupational Hazards

YOU REALLY HAVE TO BE CAREFUL. The physical aspects of styling can be pretty taxing. The average amount of stuff you’re schlepping around town is at least 200 or 300 lbs per job—just huge hockey bags overloaded with clothes, shoes, accessories, steamers, lint rollers, body tape, you name it. In New York, I don’t have my own car, so I use a lot of car services to lug it from one place to the next.

I also hire plenty of help because I know some older colleagues who now have knee or back problems because they didn’t want to shell out for assistance in the past. I like to have two people helping me at all times. I feel like it’s totally worth it, because a good chiropractor is going to cost you a lot more money in the long run.

Red carpet politics

I STYLED KELLY CLARKSON FOR YEARS. She was a pleasure to work with—super cool, super nice, super professional. I’ve worked with her at the Grammys and the American Music Awards. I’ve also worked with another celebrity for the Golden Globes, as well as a couple of people from Boardwalk Empire. These big events usually go by so fast—the outfit has usually already been decided on a few days before, and you’re basically only there to put the outfit on them, tweak it, and scram.

If the celebrity has a performance, it’s not like you’re backstage or in the audience watching it. At the AMAs, for example, we were waiting in this random, remote parking lot. Someone came and loaded us in a golf cart and took us to the location. We prepared the celebrity and left for the day. There’s no glamour in the job. You’re not part of any of that aspect. Oh, and it’s definitely high stress. Everything is so quick!

Model subjects

I HATE TO SAY THIS, BUT IT’S TRUE. In terms of the ideal subject, it’s usually someone with a slim figure who can fit into sample sizes. That applies to males and females alike. You just get a lot more options for someone if they’re a size 2. It’s an unfortunate reality of the industry, but that’s the system that we’re presently dealing with.

Especially when you’re working with a big celebrity, you can call in so much amazing clothing, but only if it’ll fit them. If you’re working with someone who is plus-size, it can be a more challenging. That’s when you have to have things custom made for the person, since most womenswear designers, at least, produce clothing that terminates at, like, a size 10 or 12.

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IN 2014, the median salary of a fashion stylist was $49,263, with the job market expected to shrink 3% between 2012 and 2022.

SOURCE: United States Bureau of Labor Statistics and Payscale.com via Learn.org

Publicists are the worst

USUALLY, WITH CELEBRITIES, it’s more of a collaboration. There’s definitely a lot of back and forth. You’ll have your curated rack of clothes, and you say, “This is what I’m thinking: I love everything here because I’ve pulled it all, but these are my 3 favorite things. What do you think?” And sometimes they don’t like those things, and you’ll have to go and re-shop the whole wardrobe for the client. And, of course, there have been times when a celebrity just wants to do things their own way. You’ll roll up the shirt sleeves a certain way, and they’ll go, “No, I don’t like it rolled up” and take it upon themselves to roll them down. Or they’ll have something specific in mind that they want to wear. There are those times when I’ve had celebrities bring me their own clothes that are just atrocious. They’ll show something that’s all wrinkled and say, “Oh, I just love this jacket!” Deep down, I’m like, “Hello! I’ve got a rack full of amazing suits!” or “My god, it looks terrible on you. What were you thinking even buying it? Forget wearing it for the shoot, it’s not even good to wear on a day-to-day basis!”

It’s definitely frustrating at times. But you just kind of have to go with it. “Sure, whatever makes you happy,” you’ll say. The most important thing is making the celebrity comfortable, because that’s what will make the best picture in the end. If I have a problem with the celebrity, the photographer could have a problem with them, and it can unravel into this domino effect of negativity.

These celebrities
(allegedly) don’t use stylists

 BLAKE LIVELY

 DIANE KRUGER

 JANUARY JONES

 MARION COTILLARD

 EMMY ROSSUM

 MARY-KATE & ASHLEY OLSEN

Source: Evoke.ie, Huffington Post, Fashionista

On and off

YOU’D THINK COMEDIANS ARE ALWAYS ON THE BALL, but when they’re getting their hair and makeup done, and getting dressed, they’ll be so serious that they almost look like they’re meditating. Maybe they’ve got a lot going on in their heads, I’m not sure. But they’ll be super, super pensive and reserved while we’re getting them ready. Then, the minute they get in front of the camera, they’re back at it. But the second the camera stops shooting, they clam up again. It’s like they have this uncanny ability to turning their personalities on and off.

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